Learn How To Surf:
After you learn to surf you will ask yourself “what took me so long to do this?” and eventually you will start asking yourself what everyone else is doing with their time cause it can’t be as good as surfing.
Then you’ll think to yourself how can something that feels so good actually be good for you, don’t worry it is good for you, good for the body, soul and mind.
People will tell you that learning how to surf involves a lot more then then getting on a surfboard and then riding a wave. And they are right.
Reality check-you aren’t going to learn (ACTUALLY RIDING WAVES) by reading about it on a website.
What websites can teach are all things other then actually riding waves
The best teacher is the ocean and the waves and grumpy locals.
So just by getting in the water and doing it as much as possible you will learn more than any site or person can teach you.
People might also tell you to get a lesson from a surf school. Schools serve their purpose I suppose. I’m not real big on them. Surfing is rooted in adventure and individuality and somehow schools just seems to take the adventure out of it, homogenize it just a little bit more.
If you are absolutely clueless on how to start surfing and haven’t got a friend who surfs then get a couple of lessons, this will get your feet wet and if its a good surf school it will teach you the basics about waves, etiquette, gear and not just shove you into waves for a couple hours while you stand up in the whitewash.
If you don’t want to spend the money on a school,that’s okay you aren’t going to learn to surf in a day or two. So……go old school and DIY.
Here is a list of things you will need to know a little about so you wont flounder around to much:
At the Turn Of the Century (1900 not 2000) Jack London had this to say about learning to surf:
The person who wants to learn surf-riding must be a strong swimmer, and must be used to going under the water. After that, fair strength and common sense are all that is required. The force of the big comber is rather unexpected. There are mix-ups in which board and rider are torn apart and separated by several hundred feet. The surf-rider must take care of him or herself. No matter how many riders swim out with you, you cannot depend upon any of them for aid.
Well Said Jack!!!
I can’t tell you how many days I had of just floundering around for hours just to catch 1,2, or three waves. but I was a kid and didn’t know any better.
If I had known better I wouldn’t have tried learning at a point break or on a shortboard.
Or buying a old crusty wetsuit that was so decrepit and stiff it actually felt like I was the tin man from the Wizard of Ozz.
I would have known a little about where to paddle out and keeping out of other surfers way.
I learned that lesson the hard way. I got hit by a older guy on purpose, he was riding a longboard, hit me right on the foot, hurt for days but after that I knew where I was and wasn’t supposed to be when paddling out.
The point is you don’t have to be a complete kook for a very long time, just follow some of the advice in the Beginners Corner and you might save yourself a bit of emotional distress or at the very least you will be able to pose with the best of them.
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